Tile selection looks simple in the showroom. Hundreds of options, endless combinations, and samples that all seem to work. Then you install your choice in a real bathroom or kitchen, and reality sets in. The wrong tile in a high-traffic area shows every flaw within months.
Getting tile right requires matching material properties to actual use conditions. Here’s how to think through the decision.
Understand the Rating Systems
Tile manufacturers use standardized ratings that predict real-world performance. Learn these before you shop:
PEI Rating (Porcelain Enamel Institute). Measures abrasion resistance on a 0-5 scale. Ratings 3-5 suit floors; ratings 1-2 are wall-only. A PEI 4 or 5 handles heavy residential traffic. Don’t install PEI 2 tile on a bathroom floor regardless of how much you like the pattern.
COF (Coefficient of Friction). Measures slip resistance. Wet areas need 0.60 or higher. Anything below 0.50 becomes dangerous when wet. This rating matters more than aesthetics in shower floors, pool surrounds, and mudroom entries.
Water Absorption Rate. Impervious tile (less than 0.5% absorption) handles wet areas best. Vitreous (0.5-3%) works for most interior applications. Anything higher belongs on walls only.
DCOF (Dynamic Coefficient of Friction). A newer standard specifically for wet barefoot traffic. Look for 0.42 minimum in showers and tub surrounds.
These ratings appear on spec sheets, not on the tile itself. Ask for documentation before purchasing.
Material Options for Heavy Use
Porcelain. The workhorse choice for floors. Dense, low absorption, excellent durability. Through-body porcelain carries the color throughout the material, so chips are less visible. Glazed porcelain offers more design options but can show wear on the glaze surface over decades.
Ceramic. Less dense than porcelain, more affordable, wider color selection. Suitable for walls and light-duty floors. Not ideal for entries, kitchens, or commercial applications.
Natural Stone. Marble, granite, slate, and travertine offer visual warmth that manufactured tile can’t match. Each material has specific maintenance requirements. Marble etches from acid (coffee, wine, citrus). Slate can flake. All natural stone requires sealing. Budget for ongoing maintenance.
Cement Tile. Handmade, often featuring bold patterns. Beautiful but demanding. Cement is porous and soft. It stains, scratches, and requires regular sealing. Best suited for low-traffic accent areas.
Large-Format Porcelain Slabs. Fewer grout lines mean easier cleaning and a more continuous visual plane. Installation requires specialized equipment and experienced setters. The material cost is higher; the labor cost is also higher. The result can be striking.
Grout Matters More Than You Think
Grout is not an afterthought. It’s maintenance infrastructure.
Cement grout is traditional and affordable. It stains, cracks, and requires sealing. In wet areas, it demands regular maintenance to prevent mold.
Epoxy grout resists stains, water, and chemicals. It costs more and requires skilled installation but eliminates most grout maintenance issues. Worth considering for showers, kitchen backsplashes, and anywhere food or moisture contact the floor.
Grout color affects perceived cleanliness. White grout in a kitchen floor will show every spill. Gray or charcoal grout forgives more. Match grout color to your tolerance for cleaning.
Grout width impacts durability. Wider joints (1/8″ or more) hide variation in handmade tile but collect more debris. Rectified tile allows tight joints (1/16″) for a cleaner look but demands precise installation.
Size and Scale Decisions
Tile size affects both aesthetics and practicality:
Small tiles (under 4″) require more grout, which means more maintenance. Mosaics work well as accents but create cleaning challenges as floor surfaces.
Medium tiles (4-12″) balance visual interest with practical upkeep. This range offers the most design flexibility.
Large tiles (12″+) minimize grout lines and create visual continuity in open spaces. They require flat substrates and skilled installation. Large tiles in small rooms can overwhelm the space or result in awkward cuts.
Scale to the room. A 24″ tile in a 5′ x 8′ bathroom creates few opportunities for full tiles and many for complex cuts. Work with your installer to lay out the pattern before committing.
Pattern Considerations
Tile pattern affects both visual impact and durability:
Straight stack (grid pattern) shows misalignment easily. Any variation in tile size becomes obvious. Use only with rectified tile and skilled setters.
Offset (brick pattern) hides size variation and adds visual interest. The 50% offset is traditional; 33% or random offsets offer contemporary alternatives.
Herringbone requires more cuts and more labor. The visual payoff is high, but so is the installation cost. Calculate the premium before committing.
Diagonal layouts make rooms feel larger but increase waste (typically 15-20% more material than straight layouts).
Practical Selection Process
- Define the use case. How much traffic? What kind of spills? Who’s cleaning it and how often?
- Check the ratings. Rule out anything that doesn’t meet minimum performance requirements for your application.
- Get samples home. View tile in your actual lighting at different times of day. Showroom lighting flatters everything.
- Calculate full costs. Tile price per square foot is just the start. Add 10-15% for waste, plus grout, thinset, backer board if needed, and labor.
- Interview installers. Complex patterns and large formats require experience. Ask to see completed work similar to your project.
The tile you choose will be in place for decades. Give the decision the time it deserves.